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How I got the nickname HOG.
I was hanging around with photo/journalist Ric Chan in the 70’s, we had gone on a few surf trips to Margs, he was doing all the photo/video work and I just had to go surfing.
All these trips involved a lot of driving and lots of tall tales in respect of large swells ridden and saucy girls seduced. Ric was quite the story teller, however I had never actually seen him surf, apparently according to him he ripped!
Photos: 1970s Ric Chan photo/journalist. Photos courtesy of Ric Chan.
(Left) 1970 Yalls Ric Chan surf photographer State Titles. (Right) 1975 Ric Chan selfie at Marg River.
One day we decided to wag work and go to Lancelin aka Lanno, he was going to leave the camera in the car and catch a few and bust a few moves. For those who have not been to Lanno, it’s a 15 – 20 min paddle out to the line-up, no boat, just start paddling.
We finally get out there and its 4-6 ft, no guys and smoking, I am really keen to see Ric ride a few as I had repeatedly heard of his ability (from him).
Photo: 1976 Steve Hannett surfing Hole in the Wall at Lancelin. This image appeared on the Limited First Edition poster for West Coast Surfer magazine in 1980. Ric Chan Pic.
At this age, I was competing in the state comps and had 10 years hard graft at Trigg Point, where as everyone knows usually has 30 -50 guys in the break. If you can’t paddle, you don’t get a single wave….I usually caught a few!
Ric is struggling to catch waves and I just seemed to jag the right spot every time a set came in. Much to his disgust, most take offs were either a turn around and stand up job or two deep paddles and go.
After two hours he is starting to get tired and shitty. We are sitting next to each other on the take-off spot and he looks straight at me and says “You are such a BLOODY WAVE HOG !! How about letting me have one.”
That name soon got shortened and repeated every time we went surfin, I still told everyone Ric carved and so did he. HA HA
Steve ‘Hog’ Hannett
1970s Steve ’Hog’ Hannett images by Ric Chan.
Top: (Left) 1977 Hog surfing Trigg Point. (Right) 1978 Hog down south
Middle: 1979 Hog surfing North Point
Bottom: 1976-77 Hog surfing Margs
1970s Ric Chan images courtesy of Ric Chan
Top: 1970 (Left) Ric surfing State Titles at Yalls. (Right) Ric with his Jaguar sedan at Scarborough.
Middle: 1970s (Left) Ric appearing in Jeans Advt. (Right) Ric appearing on ‘I’ve Got a Secret’ TV Show.
Bottom: 1976 (Left) Kung Fu Ric. (Right) Ric surfing the Spot at Yanchep.
Hog’s still surfing and windsurfing and Ric’s still taking pics and telling tall tales….
Western Australia hosted the Australian Surf Riding Championships for the first time in May 1969.
Major WA board clubs billeted many eastern states surfers here for the Australian titles. The billeting arrangements were coordinated by WASRA and President Ron ‘Doc’ Naylor.
Image: 1969 WASRA billeting arrangements. Image credit Sunday Times.
Floreat youngsters Ross Utting & David ‘Bull’ Moss from the City Beach Club hosted South Australian surfers Alistair Boot & Graham Symonds.
Ross Utting – Bull & I took the boys down south for the contest. I remember Ali bagging gutless WA waves while we were surfing pre contest at Yallingup. He got his comeuppance a couple of days later when he was nearly decapitated by his board when mowed down by a big wave at Margaret. Ali spent the rest of the week walking around with a bleeding tea towel on his head.
In Bali some 40 years later South Australian surfer Clint Habib told me that Ali has been scarred for life by the experience of big Margs & still hears the roaring freight train sound in his nightmares.
Photo: L-R 1969 Floreat locals Ross Utting & Dave Moss with SA competitors Ali Boot & Graham Symonds. Photo credit Ross Utting.
Subiaco brothers Jim & Bruce King from the City Beach Club billeted World champion Nat Young & NSW champion Ted Spencer.
Bruce King – I drove to Perth airport to pick up our eastern states billets late at night. When I got there WASRA President Doc Naylor allocated Nat & Ted to our family. I was stoked to have them staying at our parent’s place.
Jim King – I didn’t go to the airport and had no idea who had been allocated to our parent’s place in Subi, so I was really surprised when I called in next morning and found mum serving a cooked brekkie to Nat & Ted. NSW surfboard manufacturer Shane Stedman (Shane Surfboards) used to come around & pick up the lads for surf commitments and chase mum around the Hills Hoist clothesline.
Photos: 1969 Nat & Ted at King residence in Subiaco. Photos courtesy of King family.
Top: (Left) Ted & Nat. (Right) Ted, Mrs King & Nat. Bottom: (Left) Ted, Jim & Nat. (Right) Nat & Jim.
Contest rounds which were held at Scarborough & Margaret River with finals completed at Yallingup.
Misfortune struck some of the visitors at the Australian Surfing Titles down south. Nat Young (NSW) broke his favourite surfboard in the big swell at Margaret River. Alistair Boot (SA) was hit by a flying board at Margaret River and needed 19 stitches in his head. Ali went home with a sore head.
Images: L-R 1969 mixed fortunes Nat Young (NSW) broken board & Alistair Boot (SA) head injury. Image courtesy of WA Newspapers.
Jim King – Contest head honcho Doc Naylor recruited me as a contest official for the rounds held at Margaret River. I got the job of chaperoning the girls out in big waves at Main Break. The girls weren’t happy being sent out there & neither was I. Every time we spotted a big dark swell line on the horizon, we would paddle towards the middle bay to avoid getting cleaned up. It was great seeing Oz’s best surfers up close, but my wife Kath wasn’t too impressed, as we were on our honey moon at the time (-:
Photo: 1969 unidentified competitor surfing a solid left at Marg’s Main Break. Ric Chan pic.
On completion of the successfully run contest, an Award Night function was held at Caves House Yallingup. It was attended by surfers, officials and friends. Peter Drouyn & other talented surfers entertained the troops. The next day the wind was on-shore and the visitors started heading home to their respective States.
Contest results and photos will be included in surf journo/photographer Ric Chan’s coverage of the ’69 Oz Surfing Titles. Ric’s SDS article is coming soon.
Jim Breadsell was an inaugural member of the North End Board Club at Scarborough in 1962 with Geoff Culmsee, Murray Smith & other Scarborough lads. He surfed in WA for many years before travelling interstate & overseas.
Jim Breadsell – In 1966 I went to the Eastern states. Then England in 1968 and came home via India. In 1971 I worked on the copper mine on Bougainville in the Solomon Islands. In 1972 I went to South Africa and came home in 1973. Since then I have been prospecting North of Southern Cross and have owned several mining leases. (Jim has 3 gold prospecting videos on You-Tube. Google ‘Jim Breadsell’ to view videos).
Photo: 1962 North End Board Club at Scarborough. L-R Peter Longley, Jim McKenzie, Jim Breadsell, W Smith, Geoff Culmsee, B Sales & B Hunt. Murray Smith pic.
In the 60s Jim was a keen photographer and captured images of WA beaches. In this batch of Metro and Mid West beach images, Jim took the aerial pics while on joy rides from Jandakot airport.
Photo: 1966 Murray Smith outside his parents Place in Scarborough. Jim Breadsell pic.
Murray Smith – In early’ 67 after I came back from a trip around Aussie, I rolled my FJ Holden on Caves road in the South West. I had the car towed back to my parents place at Scarborough and there it fell off the tow truck.
Photo: 1967 Murray Smith with his rolled FJ Holden at Scarborough. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1968 Aerial shot of Scarborough beach front. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1969 winter wave Scarborough Beach Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1969 Scarborough Beach lamp posts. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1970 Scarborough Beach with lamp posts. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1967 Aerial shot of Trigg Point. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1969 Trigg Point with shacks on the beach near Island. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1970 autumn wave at Trigg Beach. Jim Breadsell pic.
Kalbarri (Mid West).
Photo: 1969 Kalbarri Red Bluff L-R Murray Smith & Jerry Krahn. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1969 Kalbarri Blue Holes L-R Jerry Krahn & Murray Smith. Jim Breadsell pic.
Photo: 1969 Murray Smith surfing Jacques Pt at Kalbarri. Jim Breadsell pic.
Karratha (North West)
Murray Smith – We travelled up the WA coast as far as Karratha searching for waves.
Photo: 1969 Karratha camp site on Ashburton River L-R Murray Smith, Jim Breadsell & Jerry Krahn. Jim Breadsell pic.
There are more Jim Breadsell South West surfing images in the SDS pipeline.
Andy Jones and his family migrated from West Africa to Western Australia in 1960. After a family working tour of Australia, Andy returned to WA and in 1973 he moved down south and worked on farms in the Yallingup area to support his surfing lifestyle.
Then in 1983 Andy became Drew Brent-White’s partner in the Caves Park Store at Yallingup. The store became popular with surfers and is home to the best sesame burgers & banana smoothies in the South-West. Andy has been associated with the Caves Store/Post Office ever since.
These are Andy’s comments and photos.
In ‘73 I moved to the South West and lived at Mark Favell’s place in Dunsborough. Mark Favell & I got full time work at Bakery from 1975-83. Ron ‘Gremmo’ Ellis, George Simpson John Malloy, Geoff Culmsee, Ralph Redman, Rick Lobe, Peter Mac and others also moved into Dunsborough because of its convenience.
Photo: 1973 Andy living at Mark Favell’s place in Dunsborough. Andy Jones pic.
Our single fin surfboards were made locally by Geoff Culmsee and Tom Hoye.
Photo: 1973 Dunsborough L-R Andy, Mark Favell & Neil Juster. Andy & Neil have Tom Hoye boards and Mark has his Geoff Culmsee board. Neil Juster was the baker at the Dunsborough Bakery. Andy Jones pic.
In those days we got fresh milk from Butterley’s dairy in Wildwood Road Yallingup.
Photos: 1975 Yallingup Butterley’s Dairy. Ross ‘Mahdu’ Anderson tripping on milk on the right.
In the 70s we were like hunter-gatherers. We used to go snorkelling and catch seafood.
Photos: 1975 SW snorkelling pics Gary Gibbon pics
(Left) Yallingup car park Ross ‘Mahdu’ Anderson & Andy with a fine catch of crayfish & fish. (Right) Meelup rocks L-R Phil Newman, Andy, Sue Ware, Helen Hall & Steve Caroll.
These were fantastic times for surfing in the SW. Mid-week we shared uncrowded waves with mates. I surfed the whole coast with Geoff Culmsee, Ralph Redman, the Bettenay Bros, Al Bean, John Malloy, Ross ‘Mahdu’ Anderson, Dave Seward, Al Fixter, Ray Nott, Laurie ‘Pup’ Nesbit, Drew Brent-White, Gary Gibbon, Dave Hattrick, Peter Mac, Chris Green & many other good surfers.
We also surfed with US ex-pats Tom Hoye, Pat Bloomer & Vance Burrow and top eastern states surfers Rob Conneeley and Jim & Peter McCabe.
I regard Craig Bettenay, Dave Seward, Ross Anderson and Al Fixter as being the stand out surfers in the South West at the time.
During this time we had so many surfers in Dunsborough we formed a footy team called the Pig Breeders. We trained at Dunsborough Primary School oval and it went on to become the Mulies footy team which is still going in Dunsborough today.
Photo: 1975 Andy surfing Injidup car park. Andy Jones pic.
David ‘Dapper’ Plaisted made Sunrise Surfboards in a shed near the old limestone coach house on Caves Road at Smiths Valley. The site had been previously used by surfboard maker Tom Hoye (Precision Equip Surfboards). Later it was used by Ken McKenzie (Energy Surfboards) before becoming part of Cape Naturaliste Vineyard owned by Craig Brent-White.
Photo: 1975 Sunrise Surfboards factory L-R Ronny Ratshit, Dappa, Gary Gibbon & unidentified. Andy Jones pic.
My new single fin surfboard being made in Dappa’s surf factory at Yallingup.
Photo: 1975 Andy’s new Sunrise Surfboard on the glassing stand in Dappa’s surf factory. Andy Jones pic
In ’77 I moved into Peter Dyson’s place on Yallingup Hill. I looked after the house and grounds.
Photos: 1977 Pete Dyson’s place Yallingup. Andy’s VW, Sue Ware’s old Mercedes and Gary Gibbons EK Holden are in the background of these Gary Gibbon pics
Top: L-R Gary Gibbon, Andy Jones & Ronnie ‘Ratshit’ Jeffrey.
Bottom: (Left) Andy with hound. (Right) L-R Gary Gibbon, Sue Ware & Ronnie ‘Ratshit’ Jeffrey.
Me and my boy’s toys at Pete Dyson’s place.
Photo: 1977 Yallingup Andy and his Ducati motor bike and VW sedan. Andy Jones pic
My mates & I used to live in our boardies or sluggo’s like Gary Gibbon.
Photo: 1977 Yallingup L-R Steve John, Andy Jones, Gary & John Gibbon. Andy Jones pic
My old Chrysler Royal broke down and ended up on the scrap heap at the old Yallingup rubbish tip. The former Yalls tip was located on Caves Road approx. a kilometre north of Smiths Beach turn-off.
Photo: 1970s Andy’s old car at Yallingup tip. Andy Jones pic.
During the 70s surfers were starting to search for waves up north & beyond. Stewart Bettenay headed off to NZ & others went to Indo or headed north to the Pilbara coast.
In ’74 went to Vic with Alby and met up with Laurie ‘Pup’ Nesbitt & Craig Bettenay. We surfed Cactus & Bells.
In the 70s I also surfed Nias, Gnaraloo & Exmouth and went fishing at Port Samson with George Simpson.
Photo: 1978 Point Samson fish catch. L-R Andy Jones, Loz Smith, George Simpson & Adrian from Dunno fish shop. Andy Jones pic.
Photo: 1980 Andy surfing uncrowded main break at Yallingup. Gary Gibbon pic.
I was a cricket fanatic and had a cricket pitch installed on my Yallingup property.
Photos: 1980s Andy at Yallingup. Gary Gibbon & Andy Jones pics.
(Left) 1980 Andy bowling to John Gibbon on his cricket pitch at Yalls. (Right) Andy doing a Drew Brent-White impersonation outside his Caves Park Store at Yallingup.
In 2007 multiple world surfing champion Kelly Slater was in the South West for the Drug Aware Pro event at Margaret’s. Kelly visited our Caves Store and we had our photo taken by the paparazzi.
Image: 2007 Kelly & Andy at Caves store Yallingup. Image courtesy of Andy Jones.
Andy is now retired and lives at Yallingup with wife Sally and his dogs. He still chases good quality waves.
This a collection of late 50s & early 60 South West surfing images from various photographers in the Surfing Down South archives. It features a pod of WA surfing pioneer legends.
Photo: 1957 Bernie Huddle & Keith Kino riding plywood toothpick boards at Yallingup. Water photography by John Budge.
Photo: 1958 Yallingup Main Break surfer John Budge on home-made balsa board. Water photo courtesy of John Budge.
Photo: 1962 Gallows outside break Jim Keenan & Puppydog (NSW) riding Barry Bennett boards from NSW. Jim Keenan pic.
Photo: 1960-61 South Point Cowaramup Bay unidentified surfer. Steve Mailey pic
Photo: 1962 Yallingup Main Break surfer Murray Smith. Photo courtesy of Glen Campbell (Dolphins Board Club).
Photos: 1962 Surfing legends at Gallows. Time ravage images courtesy of Brian Cole.
Top: (Left) Bob Keenan. (Right) Brian Cole.
Bottom: Dave Williams both images.
Photo: 1963 North Point Cowaramup Bay unidentified surfers. Tom Collins pic.
Photo: 1963 Bunker Bay ‘The Quarries’ unknown surfer. Tom Collins pic.
Photo:1963 Terry ‘Rat’ James doing a ‘quasimoto’ at Gallows. Photo courtesy of Sonny James.
Photo: 1963 former City Beach surfer Mick Lindsay surfing Gallows. Mick now resides in NSW. Photo courtesy of Geoff Berry.
Photo: 1964 Margaret River Main Break surfers L-R Murray Smith & Jim Keenan. Photo courtesy of Jim Keenan.
Photo: 1964 WA’s first State Mens Champion Alex ‘Zac’ Kochanowitsch surfing Margaret River Main Break on his ‘Rising Sun’ surfboard. Ernie Potter pic.
These 1950s images were sourced from pioneer WA surfer/photographer John Budg’s vintage photo collection. The actual photographers are unknown.
Image: 1950s unidentified pin-up girl.
Image: 1950s unidentified Eastern States surfers riding plywood Toothpick surfboards at an unknown location. .
Thanks to the various photographers for providing the vintage pics.