1900s photographs

Lighting Up the Cape – Paul Sofilas

A 3 Part SDS Series Exploring and Acknowledging Surfer/Lightkeepers of the South West

Part 1: Paul Sofilas by Gary Gibbon

All photos courtesy of the Paul Sofilas Collection unless otherwise credited.

It’s not an overstatement to say Paul Sofilas is just about a household name around the Augusta region. He’s been giving (award – winning) guided tours of the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse, perched as it is on the extreme south – west corner of the continent, for the past 25 years and lived onsite as the manager/caretaker of the lighthouse precinct for the past 23 years. Though not surfing anymore, he also has quite a colourful history as a keen surfer. This is his story.

Born and growing up in East Bunbury, he began surfing (kneeboarding) around the local Bunbury breaks during his school years. Living about 3 km inland from the nearest beaches and being under 17, meant a walk/run to the surf after school and on the weekends. So Paul’s aunty’s house, much closer to the coast, became the default depositary for Paul’s and his friends’ boards and accessories. They surfed spots such as Hungry Hollow, BP’s, Back Beach and The Groyne.

Back beach on a pretty reasonable day.
1992 Paul with weapons of choice. Kneeboards made by Mark Fitzpatrick.

As he and his peers grew older and one by one got their drivers’ licences, they began to roam further afield especially on the weekends. First places like Binningup and Capel Cut were reached and then later on breaks in the Cape-to-Cape region were visited pretty consistently, with Paul mentioning that amongst his compadres, Gallows, Guillotines and South Point were generally the favoured spots. Camping was very much done on the cheap with blokes either sleeping in the car, or in sleeping bags on the ground. When someone managed to get a 4WD, even more distant locations were attempted with at times, varying success.

Troubles on the Swamp Track 1.
Troubles on the Swamp Track 2.

In 1982, Paul made his debut overseas trip to Indonesia, visiting Bali, Lombok, Sumatra and Nias. He recounts that his trip to Nias ended up being extremely worthwhile. Despite a lengthy overland journey across Sumatra and the inevitable delays in catching a boat from Sibolga; on reaching Lagundri Bay they found the Point bereft of surfers. The few who were there disappeared quickly, to catch the same boat back to the mainland, on which Paul and his mates had arrived. Blissful, uncrowded days of perfect surf followed.

Streets of Sibolga 1982.
Sailing to Nias 1982 Paul at front.
Perfect Nias 1982.

On returning to Australia, Paul made the first of what was to be numerous trips up to the north west corner of our state, both to surf and work in a number of different jobs and locations. He became a regular visitor to the Red Bluff region, even working at times on Quobba Station and frequently living in his trailer on the camp grounds. Among others he knew well known Margaret River surfer Bentley from earlier days growing up in Bunbury and expatriate Eastern states surfer Phil Ogden, who many will know, put his hand up to be the first onsite caretaker at Red Bluff. This had a knock-on effect when Phil and fiancee Sue left the Bluff one summer to get married over east and go on an extended honeymoon. Paul accepted the role of acting caretaker in Phil’s absence. Besides carrying out the work in his normal thorough and efficient manner, Paul recounts that he spent many sessions in the harsh aquatic paradise that we know the Bluff to be, surfing completely alone over the summer with only dolphins, manta rays, turtles and the occasional shark for company. During this time, he lived in the stone cottage, that became known as the Kalbari Stone Shack.

Paul’s vehicle & Camper – trailer – Red Bluff 1992.
Paul & Friends at Red Bluff 2. Paul is at far left.
Paul & Friends- Red Bluff 1991 with Paul left @ front. Steve (Fatman) Harris & Eric Warren. At rear( L-R) Donald, Phil Kimberly & Bentley.
Paul- Red Bluff Kalbari stone shack 1988.
Paul gunning it at Red Bluff.

During the 1990’s he floated between jobs in the South West and the North West finding time to make the pages of People magazine in 1991 with Bentley, whilst practically illustrating to readers across the nation, why the Caves Road “Roo Crossing” was labelled as such.

Paul & Bentley- Roo Crossing from People Magazine 1991.

In 1992 he made his first strong connection with Augusta, when he went shares with his parents, who had moved to the southern town, in purchasing a block of land there.

Tiring of the heat of the North West and in truth suffering somewhat from a fair amount of skin damage due to countless hours spent working outdoors, as well as surfing, Paul took the opportunity to take up a position as a guide, taking tours at the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse in 1999. A naturally confident and ebullient speaker he found he enjoyed talking to locals and visitors alike about the history and importance of the lighthouse to shipping, communications and the local community. In 2001, he just happened to be Johnny on the Spot, when the Department of National Parks, who at that stage managed the Lighthouse precinct on behalf of the Australian Maritime Safety Authority, came looking for a potential caretaker to live onsite at Cape Leeuwin. He needed little encouragement to move from his parent’s Augusta home to one of the original houses built for past light keepers. Cape Leeuwin, the tallest mainland lighthouse in Australia, like so many light houses around the world, became fully automated in 1993. But after some unfortunate break ins and minor acts of vandalism it was felt at the higher managerial levels, that such a valuable and important resource required an extremely reliable and enthusiastic person, full time on the ground. So Paul has been that very person for the past 23 years.

Paul outside the Lighthouse with tour group.
Paul with Feta one of 3 sheep he kept in his yard for many years when his property had fences (which it no longer has). Paul says Feta was just about up for anything if you had a green Granny Smith apple handy. (He has an apple in his hand in the photo). Tourists would gawk while looking over the fence. BTW, check out the backyard view. 

In that time, he has further developed and expanded his historical and technical knowledge of lighthouses, not just of our local Naturaliste – Leeuwin examples, but of many across Australia and indeed, the world. His extensive personal research has played a major role in the content and development of the interpretive aspects of recent restoration and upgrade works at the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse and its surrounds. He feels that his job as a tour guide also provides him with the opportunity to be an ambassador for his, employer* (* Since 2016 the Margaret River Busselton Tourist Association), community and the tourism industry in Western Australia in general. He achieves this by establishing links with the community, assisting people or community groups wherever possible particularly those with an arts and/or historical focus. Paul’s diverse community leadership profile was officially acknowledged when in 2009 he was awarded Golden Guide status by the Forum Advocating Cultural and Eco – Tourism (FACET). His professional expertise is of such a high standard, that he is frequently asked for commentary on Cape Leeuwin’s history and contemporary developments by print and internet media, besides making oral contributions to radio and numerous on-air appearances on television shows.

Paul – Golden Guide Award 2009.
Paul portrait with lighthouse in the background.
Paul with tour group on lighthouse balcony.
Paul with former prime minister Bob Hawke.
Paul with Ernie Dingo during filming of TV series.
Paul speaking @ recent book launch. One of a number that Cape Leeuwin regularly host. Photo Gary Gibbon.

As mentioned earlier, Paul doesn’t surf any more, but he is an extremely keen cyclist. Being a work colleague, let me just note that it is not unusual for example, to see him make the 40 km round bicycle trip from Cape Leeuwin out to Jewel Cave for a coffee with friends from the many local community groups with which he continues to encourage extremely strong relationships. But cycling around the Augusta region, not to mention his just lazily casting an eye across his back or front yards, still allows him to keep a close watch on the current surf conditions of both the adjoining Indian and Southern Oceans. If you’re lucky enough to share Paul’s welcome company at some stage in the future, you might just persuade him to share some stories about the area’s surf potential, such as the almost mythical, but awesome looking Passage Rock Peak.

Paul Sofilas’s Home and Workplace are inseparable. Photo courtesy of Tourism WA.

Many thanks Paul for sharing your vintage memories and photos, and Gary for researching the issue and compiling this material for SDS readers.

Coming soon

Part 2. Lighting up the Cape

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