1967 began with imparting to WA people who were interested, some of the things we had learnt and provide a conversation about where surfing was going in Australia and how we could keep up in the West.
I surfed in two contests, first the 1967 State Titles which nearly all surfers went in and were well attended by spectators. It was my first year out of the Juniors in the men’s open, caught one wave, didn’t get out of my heat, and came to a realisation never to be overconfident, be more measured and never listen to the chatter. There are always people who will talk you up, put you down or be promoting people you’re surfing against. It’s about trusting your own judgement. It’s the best competition lesson I learned apart from never being scared of the opposition no matter who they are.
John Staley from Bunbury was the 1967 Open Champion. He deservedly won the contest and with others in the mix such as Arty Sherburn. He and John were two of the dominant surfers of that period.
THE VIETNAM WAR AND CONSCRIPTION
Was another big issue of the time. It affected the way our generation thought about politics and international affairs. Everyone knew people who were called up such as the Cleaver brothers Ron Moss from City Beach, Fred legs, John Pozzi and Bill Brehney from Cottesloe.
In SA, 1968 Open Champion Bill Johnson and Peter Bennett from Sand n Sea both got called up but went into the Air Force instead eventually to have distinguished careers in the military. Bill was a fighter Pilot, Wing Commander with Peter the Air forces Intelligence Commander.
Bill’s comment” flying was like surfing but better “. I asked John Pozzi recently what it was like being conscripted after living such a free surfing life and his comment was “that it was good, didn’t do him any harm, as long as you didn’t buck the system”.
Later that year world champion Nat Young came to town (Perth) promoted by White Stag West Suits, local Radio Station 6KY and Trevor Burslem. They collectively put on an invitational Surfing contest at Scarborough Beach.
Hundreds of people rolled up to see Nat surf, a World champion super star. I came second in the event with Brian Hood from Trigg’s third. Nat presented me with one of his wetsuits and that was the last contest of 1967.
CONTESTS AND BACK TO SYDNEY 1968
1968 started with an interstate contest between Victoria, Western Australia and South Australia sanctioned by the Victorian Surfing Association. Held at Right Point which is a hard breaking left near Cat Bay on Phillip Island. Some of the Victorian team came from Torquay and Philip Island.
We held our own in that contest as there were quite a few WA surfers living and working on the Island for the Summer, including John Balgarnie and Jamie Doig. I can’t remember which state won the event, but from memory Craig Brent-White from WA was the individual contest winner followed by Terry Bell and Wayne Lynch from Victoria.
I headed back to WA, determined to do better in my second year in the WA State Open Championship.
Yallingup photo circa 1970 with the Hammond Tearooms, Coral and Tony Harbison’s Hideaway Homes.
I was riding for John Arnold at the time but when I arrived in Perth. Rex and Colin Cordingley made me two boards to ride for them in the WA State Open. They were finished in time to try out. Unfortunately, something was lost in the translation, very heavy and I couldn’t turn either of them. Giving the two boards back, I then forked out my remaining few dollars to buy back my battered John Arnold “Ziggy Model “as there was no time left to get another one from Malcolm Lock.
A bit worse for the experience but without any pressure on me (most of which was on John Staley as he was expected to win) I won the State open with Barry Young a close second. John was disappointed but that’s how you learn not to take it too seriously.
Midget Farrelly who had just returned from Hawaii was there and picked up Ian Cairns as one of his team. I rode Midgets board in a free surf. Cordingley again approached me to ride for them, but I remained undecided. Shortly after the contest I was introduced to Bob Gardner (by Dave Beamish) who was starting to shape boards under his label West Coast Surfboards with his partner Mick Layzell, he said he had seen the contest, knew Arty Sherburn and convinced me he was keen to have a go at trying to make me a couple of boards. I told him of my recent board history, talked about Midget’s board that seemed ideal for Sydney. He agreed for Dave Beamish and me to design a couple of pintail boards specifically one to take to the Australian Titles in NSW early May.
1969 Peter in the shaping bay with Bob Gairdner at West Coast Surfboards.
The National Titles for the first time was not a single contest but held over three rounds in 1968 and four rounds in 1969. Each state has representatives with the home state (where the competition was being held) having the right to drop in a few extras. No leg ropes, all amateur by definition but really included the professional surfers, no age groups other than open Junior women’s and seniors — all in.
The focus was on the open where the big names were and, on the Juniors, where all the emerging talent was. The board Bob Gardner from West Coast made was excellent, but it was hard to make one board for varying surf. It went well at Warriewood rights, but not so well at the Palm Beach close outs where guys were riding 8ft 10in pintails and it was those guys who were pros or semi pro that had such boards.
Terry Jacks met me at the airport in early May and introduced me to Keith Paul with whom he surfed with in the early sixties. Keith was insistent that it was his contest and that’s how it played out winning the 1968 Australian Nationals Open Division, his confidence was notable and certainly not arrogance. Ian Cairns and I stayed with Snow McCallister who had a girlfriend at 68 years old, which also impressed me.
I’m not sure what happened to the WA team as I went to stay with Jamie Doig and Terry Jacks who had a house in Queenscliff. Jamie organised for me to get an honorary membership of the Manly Pacific Board Club and I surfed in their weekend contest. Terry took me surfing at North Narrabeen every day which is where all the pre contest surfing was taking place.
At Warriewood I made the finals repechage which selected the last two for the final after the semi winners. So, 7th or 8th was a very good result for me, still proud of it, surfing against the East Coast surfers on their home turf. Nineteen years old, open competition, one board. In the end I would eventually achieve better results, but I don’t think I felt better than surfing against the best in a place where the best came from. In so far as the progress of surfing went Surfing World Magazine has a beautiful photo of Midget Farrelly winning the 64 Worlds with a classic drop knee backhand turn. The board was about ten feet with three stringers. In 1968 Lester Brien wrote a story on the Australian titles where they added a photo of Midget doing a full rail cutback on perhaps an 7ft 6in a board, absolutely classic again, but completely different. All those changes within four years.
Midget competing in 1968 Australian Titles Warriewood NSW
It was good to watch the final of the Juniors with Ian Cairns winning the Duke Kahanamoku Trophy for the most outstanding up and coming surfer.
In addition, I have a link to the Duke Kahanamoku. Snow McCallister, Terry Jacks and I went to a surf movie at North Steyne club house where Snow introduced me to Claude West former Australian Surfing Champion, one of Snows mentors. As a boy Claude was the person to whom the Duke handed the surfboard which he had made to give his public surfboard riding demonstration at the Freshwater in the early 1920s.
I shook the hand of the man who knew the man😊.
DO WE OPEN UP WESTERN AUSTRALIA BY HOSTING THE NATIONALS IN 1969?
I didn’t hang around for any of the 68 presentations but headed to northern NSW on a surf trip with John Staley from Bunbury and Neil Pegler from Geraldton chasing girls and surf.
When I arrived back in the West the great debate was whether to take our turn hosting the National Titles and expose our surf breaks to crowds especially from the eastern states (which is exactly what happened) or benefit from the experience (which was also what occurred).
Doc Naylor and John Shackley were the WA Surf Riding Associations key officials who presided over an open meeting to discuss all aspects of the debate. The Scarborough Surf Club was packed all the Clubs participated. From the chair Doc Naylor asked me what I thought, and I spoke in favour of the competition insisting that it was a way for WA surfers to keep up and progress by surfing against the best surfers in our own surf.
I was like a lot of the guys I surfed with in the WA formed Sand n Sea Club, run by our President Craig Brent- White, we surfed off against most clubs over an eighteen-month period to become the dominant club in the late Sixties.
The club received a Letter from the National Surf Riders Association inviting me to surf in the 1968 World Titles in Puerto Rico which would have been good if I had any money to get there. Craig and I attempted to look for sponsorship in the short time we had to reply, but ultimately let it go as an unattainable opportunity. I began to realise another of life’s lessons that some things weren’t meant to be.
Early 1969 showcased two local contests prior to the 1969 State Titles
First was the 6PR WASRA Open Surf riding Competition at Trigg Point. I won the Cordingley Trophy and John Staley came second which was admirable given Trigg is basically a righthander and coming from Bunbury he would have hardly ever surfed there, where-as young surfers we surfed there a lot.
The second was a round of contests held by Tom Blaxell Surfboards. I didn’t surf in all the contests, but remember they had one in Bunbury. Art Sherburn was heading down but he didn’t have a board for some reason, I couldn’t go in that one, so he borrowed mine and won that contest. There were several contests, I was the overall winner and Tom made me a surfboard. Bob Monkman was second and my mentor Terry Jacks third.
1969 WESTERN AUSTRALIAN STATE TITLES
March/ April at Yallingup where I won again with Rob Sutherland second and John Balgarnie third. The newspaper article noted that Rob was an outsider but had in fact been an integral part of Scarborough/Trigg surfing for a decade. Rob was also one of the first who travelled to surf New Zealand in the mid-60s. His uncle was one of the original fishermen at Trigg Island with a boat shed on the beach where Rob often used to help out before school.
1969 State Titles media report
1969 FIRST NATIONAL TITLES HELD IN WA
The sixty-nine National titles did show case our surf on the west coast and although the event went better than expected, it was marred at the first meeting of the state officials when Midget Farrelly was denied entry into to contest as he had not surfed in all the NSW qualifying events. Neil Pegler and I spoke to him about it, and he was bitterly disappointed. The guy from the NSW team that I was friendly with was Glen Ritchie from Manly who basically said there were so many good surfers in NSW, that every team member needed to qualify by surfing in state rounds.
My view, with the benefit of hindsight, is that the host state could have and should have provide an exception based on historic record. There was an underlying feeling of exclusion from some of the competitors and non-competitors who did not want Farrelly to compete. They did indeed have every reason to fear him as a competitor.
In summing up the contest and how Farrelly would have gone, my view is that he undoubtably would have surfed well.
Apart from anything else I think he came second in 1968 Nationals, second in the 1968 World Titles then made the Australian Team in 1970 coming second in the 1970 World Titles in Victoria. An unbelievable record.
The 1969 Nationals they had four rounds instead of the three they had in 68.
Wayne Lynch showed everybody how to surf the shore break at Scarborough and the next three were held in the Southwest. May is an ideal time down south with less wind than at other times of the year and good easterlies. A lot of people in those days use to treat Margret River as a left only but I always went right. Some of the afternoons pre contest had Margret River in incredibly good conditions.
1969 NationalsMargaret River WA
For most people it was about the surf stars, and they were particularly good, for those of us surfing against them it was about being relaxed and enjoying the moment. I started to get a bit nervous as I moved up the ranks, people were starting to put a bit of pressure on which wasn’t all that welcome.
I made the final of the last three rounds of National contest coming third at Margret River in one. Ian Cairns made the final of all four Junior finals.
Western Australian surfing representatives had gone from never getting out of our heats, or not getting out, or going left at Bells (these are the stories we heard) in the mid-1960s to a position where we kept up with change and kept our heads up also. Attitudes were beginning to change about our surfers and our surf no longer considered doubtful, a long way from anywhere.
There were a few more contests I participated in during 1970. To defend my state title or if invited but basically, I developed other interests and needed to develop in other ways. Many of the people I surfed with were doing the same or travelling. Our club Sand n Sea began to break up as people started to travel and interclub competition began to wane.
The following photo was taken on a surf trip to northern NSW winter 1969 with photographer (and sometimes drummer) Ric Syme, Cordingley shaper Kevin Agar and Tom Blaxell team surfer Steve Cockburn. Ric’s VW Kombi is on the left.
1969 Peter Bothwell with surfboard quiver Angourie NSW.
THE SEVENTIES AND MY OVERALL IMPRESSION OF SURFING 1962-70
I was still fit and surfed quite a lot in the seventies Bob Gardner from West Coast continued to make me boards and the last one in the late seventies was the 7ft 7in gun. There were still not a lot of people around and you could sometimes surf in relative solitude with friends. I remember such a surf, Craig Brent- White and I driving up to the Three Bears Bommie from Yallingup (when you could) just the two of us out, him catching the set waves and me doing the best I could on the 7ft 7in. The last surf I had on that board was at the Bluff in 1979 when going through the last section the wave broke on my back pushing me forward and snapping my left ankle (the definition of pain – climbing a cliff with a stuffed ankle).
West Coast 7ft 7in with friend Glen Gurney at Yallingup 1979.
There were a group of surfers who were as good as I was and who spoke a similar language of change and improvement. There was an out of competition hierarchy and we all knew where we sat within the group. There was mutual respect. We were good surfers, not great surfers. As a generational group we wanted to surf better than those that came before us and do our bit to help WA surfing keep up and get to the next stage.
There was a dark side to life in those times men fought, drank and often women were on the wrong end of all that. The drug scene began to have an impact and all these things left a permanent footprint on surfing. In addition, motor cars were if you travelled a lot, a constant source of near-death experiences.
The tall poppy syndrome was also alive and well in small place like WA. The number of times I had people tell me that they or their friend was a better surfer or deserved to beat some of the committed surfers of us was numerous. There was also conservatism that refused to support the development of local surfers who were overshadowed by an adulation of the much-promoted eastern states surfers.
I always found those points of view both tiresome and boring.
Over the past sixty odd years of surfing, I have always been an observer of surfing and have been fortunate enough to see some exceptionally good surfers even in my day. I have also been fortunate to see a couple of great once in a generation surfers come from WA.
The person who took it to the next stage from the sixties was Ian Cairns who pretty much conquered the world, against the odds and without much support compared with the surfers of today, paving the way for professional and commercial surfing. The second is Taj Burrows from Yallingup and eventually Jack Robinson from Margret River. When Ian Cairns was young, he had that same lean flexible body that Taj has.
The once in a generational surfer can usually ride a surfboard as soon as they stand on it but apart from talent and self-belief, they are usually highly intelligent.
2021 SURFING WITH CROWDS TO MAINTAIN GOOD HEALTH
I currently live at Yallingup having surfed around here every year since 1964. Living on the hill at Yallingup is like living on the golf course if you’re a golfer or on a ranch if you are a Cowboy (Richie).
I still surf to keep good general health. You have to be careful not to wear yourself out shoulders, knees, backs. The crowd is something that bothers a lot of people and many spots you can’t surf when they are good because of the crowd. They come from everywhere.
For my part I am more likely to get taken out by a combination of crowd and or misadventure. In the last year I have had concussion whilst paddling up the wave the lip of a bigger wave smashed my head into the board (threw up for a week), twice hit by Stand-up Paddle Boards (one requiring expensive/sophisticated hand surgery) and once becoming a blood-stained mess last winter at Black Point being smashed inside on the basalt with a fast-rising swell.
We will see what happens next.
Craig and I with Sony James (wife Terry James) 2012Peter surfing Yallingup 2021.
DISCLAIMER
The times dates and surfing events are for the most part correct with the stories around those events subject to 50 and 60 year old memories. So, nothing within these writings is meant to offend anyone who is included or in fact offend anyone not included. I have made a point of not including a lot of people because there are so many.
For the main it is a collection of my thoughts of a period of time and would not want any part of it included in other documents.
It is not intended that that anything written about, be used to initiate further conversation about matters discussed
This blog continues from 1962-70 Surfing A long Way from Anywhere by Peter Bothwell – Part 1. 1962-66 published 3 July 2021.
1967 SURFING IN WA
1967 began with imparting to WA people who were interested, some of the things we had learnt and provide a conversation about where surfing was going in Australia and how we could keep up in the West.
I surfed in two contests, first the 1967 State Titles which nearly all surfers went in and were well attended by spectators. It was my first year out of the Juniors in the men’s open, caught one wave, didn’t get out of my heat, and came to a realisation never to be overconfident, be more measured and never listen to the chatter. There are always people who will talk you up, put you down or be promoting people you’re surfing against. It’s about trusting your own judgement. It’s the best competition lesson I learned apart from never being scared of the opposition no matter who they are.
John Staley from Bunbury was the 1967 Open Champion. He deservedly won the contest and with others in the mix such as Arty Sherburn. He and John were two of the dominant surfers of that period.
THE VIETNAM WAR AND CONSCRIPTION
Was another big issue of the time. It affected the way our generation thought about politics and international affairs. Everyone knew people who were called up such as the Cleaver brothers Ron Moss from City Beach, Fred legs, John Pozzi and Bill Brehney from Cottesloe.
In SA, 1968 Open Champion Bill Johnson and Peter Bennett from Sand n Sea both got called up but went into the Air Force instead eventually to have distinguished careers in the military. Bill was a fighter Pilot, Wing Commander with Peter the Air forces Intelligence Commander.
Bill’s comment” flying was like surfing but better “. I asked John Pozzi recently what it was like being conscripted after living such a free surfing life and his comment was “that it was good, didn’t do him any harm, as long as you didn’t buck the system”.
Later that year world champion Nat Young came to town (Perth) promoted by White Stag West Suits, local Radio Station 6KY and Trevor Burslem. They collectively put on an invitational Surfing contest at Scarborough Beach.
Hundreds of people rolled up to see Nat surf, a World champion super star. I came second in the event with Brian Hood from Trigg’s third. Nat presented me with one of his wetsuits and that was the last contest of 1967.
CONTESTS AND BACK TO SYDNEY 1968
1968 started with an interstate contest between Victoria, Western Australia and South Australia sanctioned by the Victorian Surfing Association. Held at Right Point which is a hard breaking left near Cat Bay on Phillip Island. Some of the Victorian team came from Torquay and Philip Island.
We held our own in that contest as there were quite a few WA surfers living and working on the Island for the Summer, including John Balgarnie and Jamie Doig. I can’t remember which state won the event, but from memory Craig Brent-White from WA was the individual contest winner followed by Terry Bell and Wayne Lynch from Victoria.
I headed back to WA, determined to do better in my second year in the WA State Open Championship.
Yallingup photo circa 1970 with the Hammond Tearooms, Coral and Tony Harbison’s Hideaway Homes.
I was riding for John Arnold at the time but when I arrived in Perth. Rex and Colin Cordingley made me two boards to ride for them in the WA State Open. They were finished in time to try out. Unfortunately, something was lost in the translation, very heavy and I couldn’t turn either of them. Giving the two boards back, I then forked out my remaining few dollars to buy back my battered John Arnold “Ziggy Model “as there was no time left to get another one from Malcolm Lock.
A bit worse for the experience but without any pressure on me (most of which was on John Staley as he was expected to win) I won the State open with Barry Young a close second. John was disappointed but that’s how you learn not to take it too seriously.
Midget Farrelly who had just returned from Hawaii was there and picked up Ian Cairns as one of his team. I rode Midgets board in a free surf. Cordingley again approached me to ride for them, but I remained undecided. Shortly after the contest I was introduced to Bob Gardner (by Dave Beamish) who was starting to shape boards under his label West Coast Surfboards with his partner Mick Layzell, he said he had seen the contest, knew Arty Sherburn and convinced me he was keen to have a go at trying to make me a couple of boards. I told him of my recent board history, talked about Midget’s board that seemed ideal for Sydney. He agreed for Dave Beamish and me to design a couple of pintail boards specifically one to take to the Australian Titles in NSW early May.
The National Titles for the first time was not a single contest but held over three rounds in 1968 and four rounds in 1969. Each state has representatives with the home state (where the competition was being held) having the right to drop in a few extras. No leg ropes, all amateur by definition but really included the professional surfers, no age groups other than open Junior women’s and seniors — all in.
The focus was on the open where the big names were and, on the Juniors, where all the emerging talent was. The board Bob Gardner from West Coast made was excellent, but it was hard to make one board for varying surf. It went well at Warriewood rights, but not so well at the Palm Beach close outs where guys were riding 8ft 10in pintails and it was those guys who were pros or semi pro that had such boards.
Terry Jacks met me at the airport in early May and introduced me to Keith Paul with whom he surfed with in the early sixties. Keith was insistent that it was his contest and that’s how it played out winning the 1968 Australian Nationals Open Division, his confidence was notable and certainly not arrogance. Ian Cairns and I stayed with Snow McCallister who had a girlfriend at 68 years old, which also impressed me.
I’m not sure what happened to the WA team as I went to stay with Jamie Doig and Terry Jacks who had a house in Queenscliff. Jamie organised for me to get an honorary membership of the Manly Pacific Board Club and I surfed in their weekend contest. Terry took me surfing at North Narrabeen every day which is where all the pre contest surfing was taking place.
At Warriewood I made the finals repechage which selected the last two for the final after the semi winners. So, 7th or 8th was a very good result for me, still proud of it, surfing against the East Coast surfers on their home turf. Nineteen years old, open competition, one board. In the end I would eventually achieve better results, but I don’t think I felt better than surfing against the best in a place where the best came from. In so far as the progress of surfing went Surfing World Magazine has a beautiful photo of Midget Farrelly winning the 64 Worlds with a classic drop knee backhand turn. The board was about ten feet with three stringers. In 1968 Lester Brien wrote a story on the Australian titles where they added a photo of Midget doing a full rail cutback on perhaps an 7ft 6in a board, absolutely classic again, but completely different. All those changes within four years.
It was good to watch the final of the Juniors with Ian Cairns winning the Duke Kahanamoku Trophy for the most outstanding up and coming surfer.
In addition, I have a link to the Duke Kahanamoku. Snow McCallister, Terry Jacks and I went to a surf movie at North Steyne club house where Snow introduced me to Claude West former Australian Surfing Champion, one of Snows mentors. As a boy Claude was the person to whom the Duke handed the surfboard which he had made to give his public surfboard riding demonstration at the Freshwater in the early 1920s.
I shook the hand of the man who knew the man😊.
DO WE OPEN UP WESTERN AUSTRALIA BY HOSTING THE NATIONALS IN 1969?
I didn’t hang around for any of the 68 presentations but headed to northern NSW on a surf trip with John Staley from Bunbury and Neil Pegler from Geraldton chasing girls and surf.
When I arrived back in the West the great debate was whether to take our turn hosting the National Titles and expose our surf breaks to crowds especially from the eastern states (which is exactly what happened) or benefit from the experience (which was also what occurred).
Doc Naylor and John Shackley were the WA Surf Riding Associations key officials who presided over an open meeting to discuss all aspects of the debate. The Scarborough Surf Club was packed all the Clubs participated. From the chair Doc Naylor asked me what I thought, and I spoke in favour of the competition insisting that it was a way for WA surfers to keep up and progress by surfing against the best surfers in our own surf.
I was like a lot of the guys I surfed with in the WA formed Sand n Sea Club, run by our President Craig Brent- White, we surfed off against most clubs over an eighteen-month period to become the dominant club in the late Sixties.
The club received a Letter from the National Surf Riders Association inviting me to surf in the 1968 World Titles in Puerto Rico which would have been good if I had any money to get there. Craig and I attempted to look for sponsorship in the short time we had to reply, but ultimately let it go as an unattainable opportunity. I began to realise another of life’s lessons that some things weren’t meant to be.
Early 1969 showcased two local contests prior to the 1969 State Titles
First was the 6PR WASRA Open Surf riding Competition at Trigg Point. I won the Cordingley Trophy and John Staley came second which was admirable given Trigg is basically a righthander and coming from Bunbury he would have hardly ever surfed there, where-as young surfers we surfed there a lot.
The second was a round of contests held by Tom Blaxell Surfboards. I didn’t surf in all the contests, but remember they had one in Bunbury. Art Sherburn was heading down but he didn’t have a board for some reason, I couldn’t go in that one, so he borrowed mine and won that contest. There were several contests, I was the overall winner and Tom made me a surfboard. Bob Monkman was second and my mentor Terry Jacks third.
1969 WESTERN AUSTRALIAN STATE TITLES
March/ April at Yallingup where I won again with Rob Sutherland second and John Balgarnie third. The newspaper article noted that Rob was an outsider but had in fact been an integral part of Scarborough/Trigg surfing for a decade. Rob was also one of the first who travelled to surf New Zealand in the mid-60s. His uncle was one of the original fishermen at Trigg Island with a boat shed on the beach where Rob often used to help out before school.
1969 FIRST NATIONAL TITLES HELD IN WA
The sixty-nine National titles did show case our surf on the west coast and although the event went better than expected, it was marred at the first meeting of the state officials when Midget Farrelly was denied entry into to contest as he had not surfed in all the NSW qualifying events. Neil Pegler and I spoke to him about it, and he was bitterly disappointed. The guy from the NSW team that I was friendly with was Glen Ritchie from Manly who basically said there were so many good surfers in NSW, that every team member needed to qualify by surfing in state rounds.
My view, with the benefit of hindsight, is that the host state could have and should have provide an exception based on historic record. There was an underlying feeling of exclusion from some of the competitors and non-competitors who did not want Farrelly to compete. They did indeed have every reason to fear him as a competitor.
In summing up the contest and how Farrelly would have gone, my view is that he undoubtably would have surfed well.
Apart from anything else I think he came second in 1968 Nationals, second in the 1968 World Titles then made the Australian Team in 1970 coming second in the 1970 World Titles in Victoria. An unbelievable record.
The 1969 Nationals they had four rounds instead of the three they had in 68.
Wayne Lynch showed everybody how to surf the shore break at Scarborough and the next three were held in the Southwest. May is an ideal time down south with less wind than at other times of the year and good easterlies. A lot of people in those days use to treat Margret River as a left only but I always went right. Some of the afternoons pre contest had Margret River in incredibly good conditions.
For most people it was about the surf stars, and they were particularly good, for those of us surfing against them it was about being relaxed and enjoying the moment. I started to get a bit nervous as I moved up the ranks, people were starting to put a bit of pressure on which wasn’t all that welcome.
I made the final of the last three rounds of National contest coming third at Margret River in one. Ian Cairns made the final of all four Junior finals.
Western Australian surfing representatives had gone from never getting out of our heats, or not getting out, or going left at Bells (these are the stories we heard) in the mid-1960s to a position where we kept up with change and kept our heads up also. Attitudes were beginning to change about our surfers and our surf no longer considered doubtful, a long way from anywhere.
There were a few more contests I participated in during 1970. To defend my state title or if invited but basically, I developed other interests and needed to develop in other ways. Many of the people I surfed with were doing the same or travelling. Our club Sand n Sea began to break up as people started to travel and interclub competition began to wane.
The following photo was taken on a surf trip to northern NSW winter 1969 with photographer (and sometimes drummer) Ric Syme, Cordingley shaper Kevin Agar and Tom Blaxell team surfer Steve Cockburn. Ric’s VW Kombi is on the left.
THE SEVENTIES AND MY OVERALL IMPRESSION OF SURFING 1962-70
I was still fit and surfed quite a lot in the seventies Bob Gardner from West Coast continued to make me boards and the last one in the late seventies was the 7ft 7in gun. There were still not a lot of people around and you could sometimes surf in relative solitude with friends. I remember such a surf, Craig Brent- White and I driving up to the Three Bears Bommie from Yallingup (when you could) just the two of us out, him catching the set waves and me doing the best I could on the 7ft 7in. The last surf I had on that board was at the Bluff in 1979 when going through the last section the wave broke on my back pushing me forward and snapping my left ankle (the definition of pain – climbing a cliff with a stuffed ankle).
There were a group of surfers who were as good as I was and who spoke a similar language of change and improvement. There was an out of competition hierarchy and we all knew where we sat within the group. There was mutual respect. We were good surfers, not great surfers. As a generational group we wanted to surf better than those that came before us and do our bit to help WA surfing keep up and get to the next stage.
There was a dark side to life in those times men fought, drank and often women were on the wrong end of all that. The drug scene began to have an impact and all these things left a permanent footprint on surfing. In addition, motor cars were if you travelled a lot, a constant source of near-death experiences.
The tall poppy syndrome was also alive and well in small place like WA. The number of times I had people tell me that they or their friend was a better surfer or deserved to beat some of the committed surfers of us was numerous. There was also conservatism that refused to support the development of local surfers who were overshadowed by an adulation of the much-promoted eastern states surfers.
I always found those points of view both tiresome and boring.
Over the past sixty odd years of surfing, I have always been an observer of surfing and have been fortunate enough to see some exceptionally good surfers even in my day. I have also been fortunate to see a couple of great once in a generation surfers come from WA.
The person who took it to the next stage from the sixties was Ian Cairns who pretty much conquered the world, against the odds and without much support compared with the surfers of today, paving the way for professional and commercial surfing. The second is Taj Burrows from Yallingup and eventually Jack Robinson from Margret River. When Ian Cairns was young, he had that same lean flexible body that Taj has.
The once in a generational surfer can usually ride a surfboard as soon as they stand on it but apart from talent and self-belief, they are usually highly intelligent.
2021 SURFING WITH CROWDS TO MAINTAIN GOOD HEALTH
I currently live at Yallingup having surfed around here every year since 1964. Living on the hill at Yallingup is like living on the golf course if you’re a golfer or on a ranch if you are a Cowboy (Richie).
I still surf to keep good general health. You have to be careful not to wear yourself out shoulders, knees, backs. The crowd is something that bothers a lot of people and many spots you can’t surf when they are good because of the crowd. They come from everywhere.
For my part I am more likely to get taken out by a combination of crowd and or misadventure. In the last year I have had concussion whilst paddling up the wave the lip of a bigger wave smashed my head into the board (threw up for a week), twice hit by Stand-up Paddle Boards (one requiring expensive/sophisticated hand surgery) and once becoming a blood-stained mess last winter at Black Point being smashed inside on the basalt with a fast-rising swell.
We will see what happens next.
DISCLAIMER
Acknowledgements – Photos
1968 Midget Farrelly Lester Brien
1969 Shaping West Coast Mick Layzell
1969 State Titles article WA Newspapers
1970 Yallingup Hill Unknown
1969 Angourie NSW Ric Syme
Margaret River 1969 John Witzig
Glen Gurney Yallingup Peter Bothwell
Sonny James Yallingup Loz Smith
2021 Surfing Yallingup Bruce King
Thanks Peter, for sharing your surfing memories.
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