70s

The Discovery of G-Land in Indonesia

Foreword

Former Cottesloe surfer Barry Middleton (born Western Australia) surfed WA’s Metro and Southern & Northern West Coast beaches in the 60s & early 70s. In the early 1970s he moved down south and began traveling to Indonesia searching for waves

1972 Smiths Valley crew Yallingup. Photo George Simpson (water damaged image).
L-R George Simpson, Gail, Chris Brennon (RIP) & Barry Middleton in Batik board shorts he produced in Jogja, Central Java during his first Indonesian trip.

In July 1971 he arrived at a fishing village called Kuta in Bali. His Epic surf adventure was about to begin.

Barry went on to pioneer surfing and discover surf breaks throughout Indonesia from West Timor to Sumatra, mostly Bali and renowned G-Land (Grajagan Bay) on the south-eastern tip of the island of Java.

Early 70s Barry Middleton on a trimaran at G-land. Barry Middleton pic.

Barry’s (and other Indo surf pioneers) recollections have been documented in The Chronicles of G-Land book by Indonesian author and journalist, Dian Hadiani.

The Chronicles of G-Land book

The Chronicles of G-Land’s book cover by Dian Hadiani, was launched in April 2022.

Indonesian author and journalist, Dian Hadiani.

This book examines in great detail, the complicated and surprising circumstances surrounding the early years of the world’s first surf camp. Indonesian author and journalist, Dian Hadiani, spent the better part of four years interviewing scores of people, who either visited Grajagan to surf, or were involved in setting up the camp. Unravelling the sequence of events, Dian’s research describes how the vision was realised and how warring parties battled to control the lucrative venture. If you think you know the history of G-Land, think again. This book will surprise you.

The Chronicles of G-Land describes what really happened to the remote headland and bay at the tip of southeast Java, spanning six centuries of human occupation, through to the present time. The history of the region predates the ‘Age of Discovery’ and European Imperialism, reaching beyond the Austronesian Majapahit Kingdom, which extended from Sumatra in the west to Papua in the east. Over this period, humans have been disruptive and in many instances destructive agents of change, impacting not only the local flora and fauna but the whole regional ecology,. King Brawijaya, the final ruler of the largest kingdom in all of Southeast Asia completed his last dance early in the 15th century. Among his many legacies is a pilgrimage site left overgrown and hidden deep in the forest of Alas Purwo.

Fast forward to June 1971, when a travelling surfer from Western Australia, Barry Middleton discovered a beautiful surf break at the south-eastern edge of Alas Purwo headland, in what has now become a pilgrimage site of a different kind, well preserved in its semi-remote habitat. 

Barry Middleton had been silent about his discovery of G-Land for almost fifty years.

“I have had many reasons to keep my silence about G-Land, “I followed the development of G-Land in the surf magazines and other media. It upset me how the jungle had been transformed, and how people would promote themselves, but I brushed it off!

“Finding surf in Indonesia has enhanced my life and put my worldly perspective in a different light.

The dedicated goodwill, and friendly and courteous customs of Indonesians made my travels richly enjoyable.” said Barry.

Barry Middleton’s discovery of G-Land, June 1971. Illustration by Dian Hadiani.
Dian’s painting is available on T-Shirts, see website for details.
Barry Middleton surfing Kuta Beach, 1972.

Barry Middleton proudly holding a 7ft 7” surfboard he shaped in Cowaramup WA for his next trip to the jungle point break, April 1973.

Barry Middleton’s third trip to G-Land, Teak Forest. August 1974.

Find more of Barry’s story in The Chronicles of G-Land, and how his discovery led to the development of the first surf camp in the world. His adventure with George “The Sheriff” Simpson, as well as Miki Dora.

More than sixty surfers were interviewed, including Gerry Lopez, Rory Russell and Peter McCabe. Despite their legendary status, Dian felt no compunction in challenging any stories that didn’t make sense. She even disputed the account of an Indonesian official; such was her determination to expose the truth.

The book reads as a first-hand account of an investigative journalist piecing together multiple accounts from different and sometimes conflicting points of view. The historic significance of the work could have broad appeal, i.e. beyond the surfing fraternity. At 356 pages, the hardcover book includes many colour photos, historic maps, old newspaper clippings and old documents, as well Dian’s illustrations.

Dian Hadiani’s illustration on what has happened in Alas Purwo from the 15th century to 1983.

Testimonials:

“Dian’s exhaustive research has uncovered hidden secrets and sheds light on what happened behind the scenes on our epic trips in the early days, awesome stories. Five stars!” ~Peter McCabe

“A fascinating story of a Javanese jungle boy who helped Mike Boyum establish the first surf camp in the world and stayed till the end. Dian’s book reveals unknown gems buried behind the true history of G-Land.” ~Rory Russell

“Dian has passionately pursued her G-Land book project, polishing our golden memories of the early surf adventure/travellers discovery of the world’s BEST left hand point break during the golden era of the 1970s. Her dedication to this unique place in our surfing universe is something for which we should all be grateful.” ~Dick Hoole

People and institutions who provided information and/or images:

Westerners: Gerry Lopez, Peter McCabe, Rory Russell, Dick Hoole, Gary “Kong” Elkerton, Jack McCoy, Martin Daly, Barry Middleton, Mike Ritter, Bill Boyum, the late Bob Laverty’s family, Christopher Lilley, Joao de Orleans de Barança, Tim Watts, Bob Jones, Warren Anderson, John & Mark Henderson, Jeff Rowe, Stephen Spaulding, John Ogden, Tony Brinkworth, John Pottorff, Joe Mayolett, Andrew McKinnon, Bob Barron, Susan Rasmussen-Rogot, Eddie Gardner, Bill Heick, Dan & Monty Webber, Bill Morris, Bill Leimbach, Richard Flax, Geoff Doig, David Kelly, David Kennedy, Stephen Palmer, Robert Wilson, Claude Graves, and many more, including posthumous dispatches from Kim “fly” Bradley, David Michel, and Miki Dora.

Indonesians: Sunar (Boyum’s first camp staffer) Bobby Radiassa, Gede Narmada, Wayan Sudirka, Ketut Menda, Made “little froggy” Yasa, Soetarsono (The first officer at Alas Purwo National Park’s from 1952 to 1985), Suharto (former ranger), Dariharto (Blambangan Surfing Club and retired Indonesian Departement of Tourism, Banyuwangi), Sunaryono (Blambangan Surfing Club), I Gde Berata (Surfing Club of Bali & Waja Lifesaving Club Bali), Bambang (Former staffer of tour operator to G-Land), Wahyu Murdyatmaka (Conservationist at Alas Purwo National Park), and many more.

Institutions: The library of Leiden University, Marcel Kistemaker at Oude Landkaarten – Netherlands, Paulus Swaen Auction & Gallery in Florida and London, The Library at Flinders University, Adelaide, and Atlantic-Cable.com

Additional information:

Production Team: Tim Watts and Bobby Radiasa.

Editor Team : Kevin Lovett, Dan Webber, and Dick Lewis.

Physical properties: hardcover, sewn binding, 9.5 x 7.5 inches, 356 pages, color, printed on quality 70 g. book paper.

Price: US$59.99

Website: grajaganchronicles.com

Publisher: CV. Lit Hidup, Bali

Barry Middleton (age 70) now lives with his family in Queensland.

2000s Nobbys Beach Gold Coast Qld, George Simpson, Barry’s son Zaynam and Barry Middleton. Photo Peter Davies

BarrySo if you see someone around Yalls in one of the G-Land t-shirts you know the true story from The Boy from Bathers Beach Cottesloe where John Hoogland and I surfed the South Mole Storm Surf.”

Thank you, Dian and Barry for sharing your material.

Related content

Barry Middleton surfing pioneer Cottesloe, South West and Bali posted 8 May 2019

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