Chris Holyday is the author of Between Beach and Bush book published by Hesperian Press 2020.
Cover Between BEACH and BUSH book by Chris Holyday
Chris is now researching early free surfing of our northern beaches around Trigg for his upcoming book Recollections from the Coast scheduled for release early next year.
Cover RECOLLECTIONS from the COAST book by Chris Holyday
The new book contains surfing recollections from northern beaches residents, including WA surfing pioneers John Budge & Jim Keenan and many other surfers.
Excerpts from the new book.
John Budge – “In the early 50s free surfing was just taking off as teenagers graduated from surf club long-board drills and routines, and “borrowed” club longboards, from Scarborough and City Beach surf clubs, to tackle the sand reef break at Trigg Point.Then we went up to ‘Wankers’ (so named for Mettams) and this location became a regular destination without having to put up with the tyranny of distance going down south to Miami and Yallingup. Some years after, at least by the late 1950s, we moved up to Toms. I called it Boondy Bay because of the rocks there but Toms became its popular name after Tom the grocer set up over the road later.“
1950s John Budge with his plywood ‘Toothpick’ board at City Beach. Image courtesy John Budge.
Jim Keenan – “My mates andI started to paddle up from the City Beach Surf Club, around 1952 to try the club’s wooden longboards at Trigg. Triggs presented good surf during the months of Feb, March, April and sometimes May. No crowds and only those who knew what they were doing surfed Triggs. Those that did not use boards or skis, body surfed and there were quite a few. The Trigg surf club was formed in 1953 and many of its members were great body surfers.”
1962 Murray Smith & Jim Keenan surfing Margaret River main break. Image courtesy Jim Keenan.
Thanks Chris, for sharing your surf history material.
Coming soon Recollections from the Coast book by Chris Holyday
Chris Holyday is the author of Between Beach and Bush book published by Hesperian Press 2020.
Chris is now researching early free surfing of our northern beaches around Trigg for his upcoming book Recollections from the Coast scheduled for release early next year.
The new book contains surfing recollections from northern beaches residents, including WA surfing pioneers John Budge & Jim Keenan and many other surfers.
Excerpts from the new book.
John Budge – “In the early 50s free surfing was just taking off as teenagers graduated from surf club long-board drills and routines, and “borrowed” club longboards, from Scarborough and City Beach surf clubs, to tackle the sand reef break at Trigg Point. Then we went up to ‘Wankers’ (so named for Mettams) and this location became a regular destination without having to put up with the tyranny of distance going down south to Miami and Yallingup. Some years after, at least by the late 1950s, we moved up to Toms. I called it Boondy Bay because of the rocks there but Toms became its popular name after Tom the grocer set up over the road later.“
Jim Keenan – “My mates and I started to paddle up from the City Beach Surf Club, around 1952 to try the club’s wooden longboards at Trigg. Triggs presented good surf during the months of Feb, March, April and sometimes May. No crowds and only those who knew what they were doing surfed Triggs. Those that did not use boards or skis, body surfed and there were quite a few. The Trigg surf club was formed in 1953 and many of its members were great body surfers.”
Thanks Chris, for sharing your surf history material.
Coming soon Recollections from the Coast book by Chris Holyday
Related content.
The Captain’s House at Trigg by Chris Holyday published 20 Mar 2021
Who remembers Trigg Island Café? published 25 Feb 2021
Trigg Point Waves published 10 Feb 2021
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